My very first
visit to the temple was about fourteen years ago on a hot summer day in the middle of
August. One of my friends and his family took me around Tokyo for sightseeing
and Asakusa was our stopover after a
delicious lunch of Omurice (Japanese chicken rice with Omlette) at a popular restaurant in Tokyo.
Unfortunately, I did not get a chance to visit the temple again since then but the month of May is around the corner and I hope to make it to the Sanja matsuri this year.
After walking
around the narrow lanes of the long shopping arcade called Nakamise, we reached
the temple's inner gate (Hozomon) - ,
notable for a giant straw sandal (waraji)
hung up on one side.. A lustrous red building, a big red paper lantern hanging
at the main gate (Kaminarimon or the
'thunder gate'), a five storied beautiful pagoda (Gojūnoto) next to the main hall (Kannondō) of the temple, and smoke billowing out from thousands of
incense sticks jutting out of huge sand-filled containers - it was a view that is
not easy to forget, even after fourteen long years. That was my first ever
temple visit in Japan and I loved everything about it. (and that includes the
huge and yummy ice candies that I had outside the temple :))
The place was
crowded with visitors, tourists and was bustling with activity. You could hear
the Buddhist monks chanting from inside the temple. People lighting incense
sticks and planting them into these large sand pits and joining their hands to
pray. Many of them, particularly the tourists were buying o-mikujis or random fortunes written on the strips of paper, hoping
for a good fortune.
The o-mikuji is a kind of prediction of a
person's chances of his or her dreams or wishes coming true, of finding a good
match, or general matters of health, fortune, life, career etc. When the
prediction is bad, it is customary to fold up the strip of paper and attach it to
a pine tree or a wall of metal wires alongside other bad fortunes in the temple
grounds.. A purported reason for this custom is a pun on the word for pine tree
(松matsu) and the verb 'to wait' (待つ matsu), which have the same reading in Japanese, the idea being that the
bad luck will wait by the tree rather than attach itself to the bearer. I also
bought one and I remember keeping it with me so it must have been one of good
fortune (though I can hardly recall what it was about)
My friends
told me that the temple was one of the most popular temples in Japan. Looking
at the huge crowd in the temple grounds in spite of it being a weekday, there
was no doubt about that. It remains that way throughout the year with thousands
of people visiting every day.
Though I am
not much of a history fan, it is always good to know a little more about the
interesting places you visit. My friends had a pretty good knowledge about the
temple history and were more than glad to share it with me. According to them, most
of the buildings of the temple, built in the year 645, were destroyed during
the war and are relatively recent reconstructions, the oldest one being the
Asakusa Shrine, which was built in the year 1649 by Tokugawa Iemitsu. It stands only a few meters to the left of the
temple's main building)
According to
a legend, two fishermen—brothers named Hinokuma
Hamanari and Hinokuma Takenari—found
a statue of the Bodhisattva Kannon caught in their
fishing net while fishing in the Sumida River. A wealthy
landlord named Hajino Nakatomo, heard
about this discovery and approached the brothers and converted them to Buddhism. The three men
then devoted their lives to the Buddhist faith and constructed this temple to
house and honor the statue.
Various
events are held in and around the temple throughout the year out of which the Sanja-matsuri
is one of the most popular one. Held in the third weekend of May, ever year for
three consecutive days, it is the largest and wildest festival held here and attracts
over 2 million locals and tourists. (that must be good fun but not for the claustrophobic J) It is held to honor the
three men who constructed the temple and there are grand parades with people dressed
in lavish costumes carrying Omikoshis
(portable shrines) singing and dancing to traditional music. One can also enjoy
geisha & taiko performances. All in all, it is one grand festival that
should not be missed if you happen to travel to Tokyo around that time.
Unfortunately, I did not get a chance to visit the temple again since then but the month of May is around the corner and I hope to make it to the Sanja matsuri this year.
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